| Basics for working with
epoxy putty - by RLobinske An introduction to bases for
minis - by RLobinske
Basic Decal Application - by RLobinske
Paint Stripping 101- by RLobinske
Difficult Colors - by RLobinske
Inking and Drybrushing 101- by
GoatRider
Glass and Tile Medium - by GoatRider
Storage - by GoatRider
Pipe cleaner trees - by GoatRider
What are Primers and Varnishes - by
GoatRider
Cloth Banners - by kathrynloch
Painting Terminology - by
Etherealmajesty
Simple snow bases - by Eagles
Modelling and Painting
Suggestions FAQ - by RLobinske
Painting Horses - by Kathrynloch
Intro to Wet Blending - by KathrynLoch
Protecting your Paint Job - by
GoatRider
Glues - by Goatrider
Brush Care - by Goatrider
Tools for Getting Started - by
Goatrider
A guide to using magnets - by
EvilBryan
Pinning - by Godhammer
I would just like to take the time to say that in no way am i trying to
take the credit for the great work of others. My thanks go to them all. These are all
ideas & threads from the GW Forums.
Basics for
working with epoxy putty - by RLobinske
Basic principles I have learned over the years. In keeping with my other stock posts,
input, suggestions and additions are welcomed.
Epoxy putties are two part epoxy compounds that form a firm putty when mixed, very
useful for large scale filling (or load bearing) and sculpting on models. There are
numerous different brands available, including "green stuff", the blue+yellow
putty sold by GW (also sold as Kneadatite), in the US, GW has recently been replaced this
with a blue+white version in the US, the classic is apparently still available in the UK.
Also available are Milliput, A+B, Apoxie Sculpt, Magic Sculpt and others.
When working with these putties, keep fingers and tools wet from a nearby container of
water, these are quite adhesive and will preferably stick to anything but the intended
target :) Mix up only what you need at a time, different brands have different working
times, you will need to keep this in mind. Basic tools will include a flat blade for
smoothing, a rod, a ball tip and a wire loop (this can be simply made by inserting a fine
wire loop into a pin vise). Use the flat blade for general smoothing and shaping, the rod
for rolling and building up folds, the ball tip works well for smoothing inside sculpted
detail, the wire loop is used to scoop away material. Used dental tools work well, as do
fine grade clay sculpting tools. GW produces a sculpting tool, so does Squadron and
Micromark. Epoxy putty works well for filling larger or load-bearing gaps, is expensive to
use for minor gap-filling, use a filler putty like Squadron Green Putty or Modelmaster Red
Putty for these. To produce flat sheets of putty (such as for cloaks or banners), put a
lump between two sheets of wax paper and roll into a sheet of the desired thickness. Some
putties will stick to wax paper, in that case, apply a layer of petroleum jelly to the
paper surface before rolling out, you will need to wash the model with water and detergent
to remove the remaining jelly before painting. Allow to start setting (about 10 minutes
with Kneadatite, up to 30 minutes with Apoxie Sculpt), then peel away the paper. Cut to
shape and apply to model, a drop of CA glue will occasionally be needed to tack the putty
into place. Sculpt the joint smoothly into the model and then shape, fold, and otherwise
adjust to final shape (the rod tool can be used to make smooth folds). When dry, do any
final sculpting adjustment, add small amounts of putty as needed. Putty can be final
sculpted when set with hobby knives and files (such as getting crisp corners).
To sculpt new limbs (or whole figures), you will need to make a wire armature for the
model, which will form the skeleton for the sculpt. For a limb, drill a hole in the model
and CA glue the wire in place, then cut to length. Bend to shape and apply the putty
around the wire, do the basic core first and allow to set, then go back with a thin layer
to sculpt detail. For whole bodies, you will need to either solder wire together to make
the armature, or use one of the commercially available sculpting armatures (I know Reaper
makes these, I believe there are others).
As with many aspects of model building, practice is needed to learn these methods.
Start with small projects and work up to more involved ones.
An introduction to
bases for minis - by RLobinske
1. Attaching metal figures to the slotted bases. As many quickly learn, simply CA
glueing the figure tab into the slot does not do a good job and can break loose easily,
plus leaves a visible slot and tab. Some ideas that have been posted previously:
A. Clean up mold lines and trim the tab so that it is not deeper than the base. Fill
the slot with epoxy putty (green stuff or Kneadatite, Milliput, Apoxie Sculpt) and place
on a piece of wax paper on a hard surface. Press the tab into the slot until the feet are
flush to the base surface. Peel away the wax paper and trim away excess putty, transfer to
the top of the base over the tab. Use a scupting tool (or old hobby knife blade) to spread
this putty over the exposed tab and fill any remaining parts of the slot. Sculpt as
desired, adding more putty if needed. Set aside to dry. This method produces a very strong
joint that has not failed for me yet (I have 11 armies between 40K, WFB and WAB, all over
1500 points).
B. Bend the tab into an arc that gives a tight fit into the slot, then CA glue in
place. Cover the tab and slot with putty or flock.
C. Use strip polystyrene as shims to fill the slot with the tab and CA glue in place.
D. Cover the slot with thin sheet polystyrene, tape or whatever is handy. Cut the tab
from the model and file the remains off the feet, then CA glue in place, a small pin
running up through the heel into the ankle will increase the strength of the joint. This
method provides the most flexibility in positioning the figure on the base.
2. Finishing the base. Opinions on how to do this varies quiet a bit, from a simple
coat of paint (the idea that simple bases will not distract from the model and blend into
the table better) to moderate or elaborate details (viewing the base as a frame to set off
the model).
A. Paint only. Use a color to match your table or the theme of your army, common colors
are greens (goblin green is popular but hideous, try using a darker, more olive green),
browns and greys.
B. Flocking. Apply a base coat of paint to the base, commmonly used are greens and
browns, then apply flocking. Several ideas are used here:
I. Apply a layer of 1:1 white glue/water mix to the base and dip the base in flocking
material, shake excess loose. Fill a small trigger spray bottle with water and a drop or
two of liquid detergent. Spray the flock to wet completely. The detergent water will break
down the surface tension of the glue/water mix, allowing it to wick up around the flock
particles and partially soak in, creating a strong bond.
II. Apply a layer of thinned white glue or full-strength glue to the base, dip and
shake off excess. Seal down with a coat of spray varnish.
C. Sand. An inexpensive alternative to flock, glue down using similar techniques to
flock (I or II depending on preference). Can be painted as desired, commonly greens,
browns and greys again, shade and highlight to taste. Often recommended to glue the sand
down before priming and just paint along with the model.
D. Static grass. This is a fine fiber material that looks a more like leaves of grass
than flocking, but has an oddly artifical color. Basic idea is to use a thin layer of
glue, then blow air over the top or bring a static charged item over the grass to get it
to stand up. I have not used this material, so other comments and experiences would be
appreciated.
3. Added details. You can add small extras to the base for visual appeal (especially on
character models). These can include small stones, clumps of grass, shields, weapons,
skulls, severed heads, shell casings or whatever you can imagine.
Basic Decal Application - by
RLobinske
1. Apply a gloss finish to the model. This will reduce the risk of the film silvering
and will help the decal attachment to the model.
2. Cut out the decal and dip into warm water. The paper will curl, remove from water
when the paper starts to uncurl and set aside until the decal slides freely.
3. Apply a small drop of decal solution to the location on the model
(Microsol/Microset, Solvaset or Decalset), then use a clean brush or forceps to slide the
decal into place, then put a small drop of solution on top of the decal.
4. Set aside to dry, the decal will initially wrinkle, but this will clear as the decal
settles in and conforms to the model shape.
5. When dry, apply a light gloss coat to seal the decal and help hide the film edge.
6. Apply any flat finish desired.
Paint Stripping 101
*****Paint Stipping can involve some very nasty substances. Please be very careful if
you're going to try any of this. Be sure to use gloves and full eye coverage. Also do this
in a well ventilated area*******************
I have compiled the following quick rundown of paint stripping methods from various
model forums and my personal experience to make some fast comparisons available. Further
details on a number of these products can be found at http://www.paintingclinic.com.
Preferences on materials can vary quite a bit, based on personal experiences and tastes,
plus exactly what they want from a stripper, fast action, plastic safe, inexpensive or
easily available. Availability of different products will vary with country of origin.
Please follow all label safety directions and cautions. If you cut and paste this post,
please credit the author and include all disclaimers. The following is not a definitive
list.
Most paint strippers work the same. Just put some in a jar with your minis, and leave
it for a few minutes to a few days, depending on how strong it is. When you see the paint
wrinkling, or you get tired of waiting, put some rubber gloves on and safety glasses, and
go to a sink with an old toothbrush. Softer brushes will require more scrubbing, but
harder brushes (like metal wire brushes) have a much better chance of scraping off detail
on a plastic mini. Scrub the minis under running water. You may need to scratch the
crevasses with a sharp knife or pin. If it doesn't all come off, put them back in the jar
for another soak.
Some folks have had better success by first soaking the models in water for several
days, then soaking in thinner or whatever you're planning on using to actually strip the
paint. Others have not seen any changes in results.
Many of these materials are very nasty. Be sure to use gloves and wear eye protection.
It's also a good idea to be in a well ventilated area.
Many of the stronger materials will dissolve green stuff as well, be careful if you've
got a great conversion you're trying to repaint.
Acetone (nail polish remover), Removes most paints, works well on pewter, will quickly
damage plastics. Use with gloves and in good ventilation away from flame.
Acetone-free nail polish removers: Work quickly, many paints can be worked loose after
about a minute. Apparently safe for plastics when used for a minute, but will soften
plastics in 1 hour and destroy them after 12.
Alcohols (Denatured, Isopropyl, "Methlyated Spirits", Methanol), works
reasonably well on acrylics, usually poorly on enamels and varnishes. Safe for plastics.
"Medical spirits", apparently an alcohol based product with castor oil, one
report of success. T-röd, a Swedish product, a denatured alcohol product.
Brake fluid:
It is important to note that brake fluid is toxic. It's effectiveness and safety on
plastic varies considerably between brands. Some work great and are safe on plastic. Some
don't work well at all, and some will nurglify plastic quickly. The reason is brake fluid
is designed to stop vehicles, the paint stripping properties is secondary. The time
necessary will vary by brand, but can take a couple days.
Castrol Super Clean, works very well on most paints, usually within a couple of hours.
not reported to damage plastics. Scattered reports indicate that this may not be as
effective, plus reported damage to glue on assembled models.
Chameleon is biochemically degradable, fast working and long-lasting, works very well
on a wide range of primers, paints, varnishes and decals. Once too much sludge builds up
in a stripping vat, you can simply filter through a coffee filter and continue to use. In
my experience, will work within 15-30 minutes for most paints, may require overnight
soaking for old enamels. Primarily available at hobby shops. I very highly recommend this
product.
Easy Lift Off (ELO), another plastic model paint stripper produced by Polly S, claimed
"safe for most plastics and metals" on the label, works fairly rapidly. Reported
to actually damage plastics after extended soaking.
Easy-Off oven cleaner, works very well on most paints, though it is caustic and should
be used in good ventilation and with sturdy gloves. Normally works within one hour. Model
should be thoroughly rinsed before handling with bare hands. May require a second
application for thick paint accumulations.
Gasoline, works fairly well on many paints, will destroy plastics, is very highly
flammable and has a considerable toxic hazard. Not recommended.
Methylated Spirts, see alcohol.
Nitromors, a DIY-type paint stripper, very good for most paints on pewter, effective
within an hour, use with gloves and good ventilation. UK availability.
Orange Clean, works very well on most types of paint, usually within a couple of hours,
little scrubbing required. Long-lasting, can be filtered to remove sludge for continues
use. Very cost-effective. Some reports of damage to models.
Pine-Sol, a little slow working, will do a good job of removing paint, but extended
soaking will damage plastics.
Polystripa (sp?), Canadian product, reported to work quickly on pewter models, will
damage plastic, requires mask and gloves.
Simply Green, biodegradable, low toxicity, works well, though some scrubbing is
required, usually requires several hours of soaking. Not as effective on enamels. No
reports of damage to plastics.
Speedball, a professional janitorial produce, works on plastic and metal, reportedly in
a couple days, priced about $10 per gallon. Reported very toxic/corrosive, wear good
gloves. Availability outside the US uncertain.
Strypeeze, a heavy duty paint stripper, is a gel that will remove almost any paint or
varnish within 15-30 minutes, very caustic, requires good ventilation, gloves and thorough
washing after use. Can damage plastics. Variations available in other countries, basically
the heavy-duty gel paint strippers from DIY stores.
Window cleaners, the clear blue variety, works well on acrylics, not very effective on
enamels, inexpensive and readily available.
Citri-Strip - You can use it indoors, cause it doesnt have any harse fumes (smells like
oranges). Its enviromentally friendly, but gloves and goggles are still the best bet. The
best part is that you can get it in a spraycan. this stuff is like a foam so it sticks
really well. And it takes about 30 minutes to soften the paint enought that you can use a
soft bristle toothbrush to take the paint off. I bought this Citri-Strip at Lowes' and I
dont know if they have it at Home Depot or not. It costs about 7 dollars and you can strip
a bunch with one can. You cant use it on plastic figs at all. You dont need to by the
specail Citri-Strip cleaner/rinse stuff, just wash them in hot water or put them in the
dishwasher to wash the stripper off. and while you rinse them off use a hard brissle
toothbrush or a wooden tooth pick to get into the cracks.
Other methods undoubtedly exist out there, feel free to post alternative methods or to
expand upon
Difficult Colors - by
RLobinske
Three colors commonly cause difficulties for novice painters, yellow, red and white.
These pale colors commonly have less opaque pigments (the chemical added that provides the
actual color) than darker colors. Problems include poor coverage and brush streaks.
Do not attempt to apply over a black primer coat, you will only get a mess. Either use
a white or grey primer, or apply a buffer coat of a light to medium opaque color, such as
a grey or tan if you insist on a black primer.
For white, use an off-white as your basic color. You can shade this with a light to
medium grey to taste using your preferred methods, washes, layering, blending,
drybrushing. Use white as your highlight tone, applied as works best for you.
For red, add a little black or green to produce a shadow tone, but be careful not to
overdo it. For a highlight tone, add a little yellow or orange instead of white (which
will just give you pink).
For many novices, working with prepared tones of yellow is often your best start, use a
darker yellow paint or ink for shading, you can add white for highlights if needed.
For yellow and red, some people will use underpainting to produce shades and
highlights. This involves painting the area in an exaggerated grey scale for shades and
highlights, then applying a thin coat of paint or ink to provide the color. A little
tedious, but can produce nice results.
Others will use the option of a red or yellow spray paint to provide the basic color,
then just apply washes or drybrushes to accent. It is important to get a good match to the
spray paint for any touchup work.
Even over a lighter color, these low opacity pigments often will require more than one
coat for a complete coverage and to avoid streaks. For this, use a soft brush (wide if
covering a large area like a vehicle) and slightly thinner than usual paint. Keep your
brush strokes in one direction. Allow to completely dry, then apply a second coat with the
brush strokes perpendicular to the first. This will eliminate almost all brush strokes and
produce a good, even finish. In most cases, two coats will provide the coverage you need.
Slight touchup work may still be needed.
Inking and
Drybrushing 101 - by GoatRider
The most time consuming part of making a good looking miniature is to carefully paint
color everywhere on a miniature. But if you stop there, what you have will be flat and
lifeless. What you want to do is exaggerate the normal highlights and shadows that would
appear on the miniature from lighting so they look good from a few feet away. The quickest
way to do this is with inks and drybrushing. It only takes me about 25% more time, and
make them look so much better. I'm amazed to see so many miniatures on eBay that are
competently basecoated, but they look pretty dull because they omitted these steps. I'm
tempted to buy them, and then finish them up and take good pictures and sell them back on
eBay. I might be able to make a good profit.
To use inks, what I do is thin the ink out about 4 or 5 to 1 with water, maybe with a
little soap or future floor polish added to help hold it in the cracks when it dries..
Then paint it all over the areas where that is a good color for shadows. What it will do
is flow into the cracks, and make dark lines and shadows. It is very quick, and the
miniature "pops" to life. If you put too much on, wipe off your brush and mop up
the excess. For my wood elves, I use "flesh wash" ink for the whole miniature.
For metallic armor, I usually use black ink. Another technique is called a
"directed" wash, where you only apply the thinned ink directly to the cracks you
want to shade. Shading washes can also be done with paints thinned with water and a touch
of liquid soap, experiment and see what you like. Inks tend to make a miniature shiny, but
that's OK, because you should be varnishing anyways to protect it, and the finish of the
varnish is what you'll see.
Then I highlight using drybrushing. Sometimes I drybrush the main color again if the
ink has stained the open areas. Then I pick a lighter color and drybrush lightly over the
high spots. Drybrushing is wiping most of the paint off of the brush, and lightly brushing
the high spots with only the end of the brush, slowly building up a brighter color. It's
quicker than basecoating, and it makes the miniature look much more three dimensional.
A final step that's important to make a miniature look professional is to finish the
base. The easy way is with flocking. First you paint the base with a color you think looks
good with your chosen flock. Standard GW flock looks good with Goblin Green or Camo Green.
Then paint some thinned PVA glue (known as white glue in the USA) over the top of the
base, and dip the base in the flock. Flick off the excess, pick or wipe off any that got
where you don't want it, and set it aside. Warning- Some white glue, such as Elmer's, is
water soluble. Try to avoid that kind of white glue.
Finish off with a coat of varnish to protect it. I like a good flat finish like you get
from Testor's Dullcoat. GW "matte varnish" spray is a tiny bit more shiny, but
it does a good job of protecting it. A lot of people use both, using a cheap varnish to
protect, and Dullcoat to kill the shine. I then paint the bits that should be shiny with a
paint-on gloss varnish.
There are better looking ways to paint the shading and highlighting on your miniatures,
but they are difficult and much more time consuming. These are called layering and
blending. Get the hang of inking and drybrushing before you tackle these techniques.
More tips can be found on these sites:
http://www.paintingclinic.com/
Glass and Tile Medium - by
GoatRider
Many people ask how to prime and paint Styrofoam. The problem with thinned glue is that
it beads up on styrofoam if you've thinned it enough for painting. I have an alternative
that works a lot better, and it also works as your first layer of paint.
Go to a craft store, and get some Folk Art brand Glass and Tile Medium. This makes a
good primer by itself, it will stick to anything. But it dries clear and flat, so you
can't see what you've done. So, get another bottle of craft acrylic of the color you want
for your basecoat, and mix it 50/50 with the Glass and Tile Medium.
Craft acrylics like Folk Art or Delta Ceramcoat are great for painting scenery. Since
scenery is a lot bigger than miniatures, it gets rather expensive to use miniature paints.
Craft paints are $1 for 2 ounces, about 8 times cheaper than mini paints. You can get it
at any craft store, like Michaels. A craft store is like a hobby store, but with women.
Storage - by GoatRider
I magnetize my miniatures and transport/storage boxes. For my miniatures, I glue a
strip magnet to the bottom of the base. For transport, I get one of those plastic storage
boxes, and glue sheet metal to the lid. You can use cut up cookie trays or roofing sheet
steel. Then you use the box to cover it up. Or, you can use a steel tool box.
For move trays, I cut a piece of sheet steel the size of the regiment plus edges, glue
it to some sheet magnet (magnetized side down), and then add 1/4 round basswood rails.
Prime it, paint it green, and flock the edges. It looks really good, and the regiment
stays together and can even stick to the fridge. Here's a regiment of High Elf Lothern
Seaguard I painted for a friend. The FridgeGuard!
http://www.goatrider.com/images/Fridgeguard.jpg
If you don't want to magnetize your miniatures and need to make move trays, just get
some thin plywood from a model airplane store, cut it to size, and glue 1/4 round basswood
to the edges. If you can’t find 1/4 round, just get square and sand it to shape. It
helps take casualties off if you leave the back rail off, but then the tray isn't as
stable.
Recently, I got some Forest Litter scenery material from Vatican Enterprises (http://www.wargamescenics.com/). I add a little
of that to both the bases of the miniatures and the edges of the move trays. Helps tie
them together even better, and makes my wood elves look like they just came out of the
woods.
Pipe cleaner trees - by GoatRider
I make trees with pipe cleaners and railroad foam foliage. I twist together a bunch of
black pipe cleaners to make the trunk, branches, and roots. I trim all the branches and
roots to length, and then glue the roots to a plywood or styrofoam base. It helps to use
masking tape to hold the roots close to the base while it dries. I fill in some of the
gaps in the roots with spackle to make them more root-like. Then I soak everything in
thinned PVA glue, and then let that dry. I then soak everything in black gesso. I drybrush
shades of brown to give it a bark look, and paint and flock the base. Then glue clumps of
foliage on. I use a tacky PVA glue from a craft store, called "tacky glue".
It helps if you know something about Bonsai tree styling, then you can make them look
really good. But then you tend to get carried away. Here’s a page I’ve put
together with my best trees:
http://www.goatrider.com/fake_bonsai.html
Primers and Varnishes -
by GoatRider
Primer should be the first thing you put on your miniatures, after washing them. It is
a type of paint that sticks to plastic and metal better. It's also slightly rough, to take
subsequent layers of paint better. GW sells both black and white primer. Some people use
grey instead, usually Krylon. Which one you use is up to your painting style, and is a
whole other article. There's also "chaos black" and "bone white" spray
paint- it's not the same thing!
I think primer is called "undercoating" in the UK, but in the US
"undercoating" is a thick layer of anti-rust paint that goes on the underside of
a car.
"Basecoat" is not primer- it is the first coat of color paint that goes on
the primer, sometimes from a spray can if you want it the same color all over, but usually
by brush.
"Varnish" is a protective layer of clear paint you put on last. You don't
have to varnish your miniatures, but you'll be glad you did when your greasy pizza eating
friends pick them up and go "ooo ahhh". Varnish comes in gloss and matte,
although most brands of matte are more of a satin finish. The best matte finish is
Testor's Dullcoat, which is a dead flat that makes even glossy ink look like flat paint.
Some people say that it doesn't protect as well, and it's kind of expensive. So, the best
bet is to take a cheap spray matte varnish and protect the miniatures, then kill the shine
with a quick shot of Dullcoat. Follow up with some paint-on gloss varnish on the bitz that
are supposed to be shiny.
I haven't bought GW's varnishes for awhile, but I've heard they renamed the matte
varnish "purity seal", and the gloss paint-on varnish "'ardcoat". Lots
of brands work well for this though. I haven't seen a bad gloss varnish, so any brand will
do, either spray-on or paint-on. Matte paint-on varnish tends to look milky so I don't
recommend it.
Spray paint can be hard to buy mail-order. It’s compressed and flammable, so you
can't put it on a plane, and even on a truck you need to be careful, so most places don't
even bother. If you don't have a GW store nearby, you'll have to find a substitute. Krylon
is a brand of spray paint that's readily available in the US, and they make primers and
varnishes that are pretty much the same as GW's.
Choosing a Primer
Black primer is good for a technique called "quick shading", where you
drybrush on all the colors and highlights, leaving the black showing in the crevasses. In
my opinion, this results in a hasty looking paint job. Also, it tends to dull the colors,
and getting a clean looking red, yellow, or white is nearly impossible. But it's fast and
easy, so it's the quickest way to field an army.
White primer is good for the technique I usually use, that I call
"basecoat-ink-drybrush", where you paint color everywhere (basecoat), shade with
inks, and then highlight with drybrushing. It doesn't get award winning quality, but it
produces decent looking regiments. See my post titled "Inking and Drybrushing
101" in the "Useful Hobby Tips" topic for more details on this technique.
Black paint works fine over white primer, but white looks crummy over black, so if you
need both, start with white primer.
GW metallics look great drybrushed over black, but it doesn’t have have to be
primer, it can be black paint over white primer in just the areas that need metallic
paint.
More advanced techniques, like layering or wet blending, don't rely quite as much on
the primer. But without a buffer layer, it does affect the brightness of the final job.
Black primer will tend to produce a dull look, and white primer a glowing look. Many
advanced painters will use a grey primer, since this affects the final colors the least.
Note that other colors are probably NOT primer. If it doesn’t say primer on the
can, it’s not a primer. Primer has added adhesives that make it stick better to bare
metal. And it has a slightly rough surface that’s easier to paint on than the slick
surface of regular spray paint. If you have a miniature that is predominantly one color,
prime it first with a primer that is closest to the shade of paint you are using, and then
spray it with the colored spray paint you want.
If you've already got an army started, it's best to stick with the same primer so that
the new units don't look out of place.
Cloth Banners - by kathrynloch
Cloth banners are very simple. Number one, use simple fabrics...a cotton fabric with a
good tight weave. They are usually cheap and readily available on the scrap table at your
local fabric store or even Wal-Mart.
No matter the color, you can usually get the best result from that basic cotton blend,
either by coloring it with paint or dye...rather than buying the color you want with
polyester in it.
Polyester, since its basically plastic in and of itself, gets nasty if you are trying
to work with it. For doing banners, please avoid polyester...but laser burns are the
exception.
Take a swatch of fabric and using seamstress chalk (basic chalk with a point) or
seamstress pens (there are pens for fabric that either wash out or fade after a couple of
hours). Draw first the outline of your banner, the general shape. Is it square,
triangle...double triangle...so on and so forth. I usually make a dotted line where the
banner will attach to the pole and extend it outward to wrap around the pole it's hanging
on. I also make little nips with scissors, top and bottom, to note the end of the fabric
after the extension to wrap around a pole...you'll see why later.
If you want to get really detailed with this...do the same thing but make your
measurements to wrap around a rope (thread or leather) instead of a pole.
Once I get that drawn, I usually go ahead and paint before cutting the piece out. This
includes any heraldry...the symbols...I want. But I can't draw worth a crap, you say.
Simple, there are many examples in books that you love...create a stencil. Just create an
outline by tracing the heraldry and color it in from there.
I've discovered, being a part of this forum for a very short time, many of you think
you are not artists, when in fact you are exactly that. And very good ones too! Come on my
friend, dare to be different and try something new, you may be surprised at the results.
Okay, soap box aside, when I get the piece I want on one side, I hold the fabric up to
good light and trace the outline I just made on the opposite side. This can be rather
tricky at times but just make light marks and you'll get it. I then paint the other side.
Now...as to paints...fabric paints are the best...they even have fabric pens now. But
those old delta paints work awesome as well.
What look do I want? Brand new regiment, we want it crisp and well. So don't wash it at
all. If you want one that has seen major battles? Don't cut up that scrap yet...throw the
entire thing in the washing machine, on cold but not by itself (I throw it in with my
jeans) for a cycle. And be sure to dry...drying helps the aging process.
Okay, on brand new appearance, no washing, I trim neatly and apply according to those
measurement marks I made.
Now with wanting used standards...Washing and drying helps fade colors but after
cutting I grab some ends of thread and fuzz them out. Go with your tastes here...but don't
yank on long threads otherwise you may pull out a major piece of your banner. If a thread
is too long, trim it off with sharp scissors.
Why was I so adamant about cotton? Here's where it really helps. To get worn or
weathered looks, cotton burns where as polyester blends melt. If you want bullet holes,
burn marks or whatever...cotton is your best bet. But if you want something to appear
melted...a laser perhaps...maybe polyester helps? Haven't tried that one yet...it's on my
list.
I've put burn marks on cotton banners by flicking hot ashes from a cigarette, using
matches I just blew out, and so on. If it burns, it works on cotton. I've also taken a
lighter to the edges but have yet to perfect that technique. (Running around screaming my
hair's on fire! My hair IS ON FIRE! Is not fun.)
Okay, after putting yourself out...or is that just me? You should have a banner ready
to apply. Oh, and the marks...if you washed your banner, the marks are gone. No worries,
that's why you measured before you cut and put those little nips in, top and bottom. Cut
straight and there ya go. One used banner.
So...now its so used it doesn't stand up but hangs there like...well...we won't go
there. After cutting, trimming, and getting the look you want, place the banner in the
position you want it. Wavy...use small rolls of tinfoil to give it that up and down
appearance. Then give it a small blast of spray starch. You remember, that stuff your mom
or grandma used to use when ironing, available at any grocery store. You'll want to use a
bit more than mom or grandma did to make the fabric really stiff. Remember on the other
hand, dad or grandpa complaining about too much starch in the collar??? Well, for banners,
we want some, but not so much so it soaks the banner until it's limp. Limp is not good as
we all know.
Let dry overnight.
After that, apply to standard. You can do some minor reshaping...MINOR, I said, do
anything more and the starch is destroyed. PVA glue works well for affixing but so does
Super Glue (although you've gotta be fast with that). Give it a shot, you may be surprised
what you can create.
Cheers,
Karrie
Painting
Terminology - by Etherealmajesty
Black lining: Using paint or ink to make a dark line where two sections of the model
meet. This is best saved for between armor plates and things of that nature as they would
produce to sharp of a contrast on other parts of the model e.g. skin, cloth, etc…
Shadow lining: Using paint or ink to make a shadowed line between to objects e.g. a
brown pouch and a green cloak are next to each other a dark green shadow line would
produce the subtle but realistic effect of a shadow created by the bag.
Wash: Using paint or ink watered down with water to create the effect of shading in a
recessed area. This can be used to over the entire model or directed only to a certain
area.
Highlighting: Using paint to portray natural bright spots on a model.
Shading: Using darker tones to represent natural shadows on the model.
Dry brushing: This is another [quicker but not as pleasing to the eye] form of
highlighting. Wipe most of the paint on a brush off onto a paper towel and lightly drag
the brush over the model so the raised areas of the model "catch" the highlight.
Stippling: Using an old worn out brush wipe off most of the given color as you would
for dry brushing but instead of drawing the brush over the model, repeatedly dab the paint
onto a given area to create the effect of camo or exhaust burns.
Blending: Making a smooth transition from color to color. This effect can be produced
in one of two ways: Wet-blending and Layering.
Wet blending: Using wet paint to blend two colors together. E.g. laying down a base
coat of Regal Blue and while the Regal Blue is still wet place a dot of watery
Ultramarines Blue on a high point on the given surface and using small circular brush
strokes blend the two colors into each other.
Layering: using successive highlights to blend colors.
Primer coat: A coat of a rough paint that is sprayed or brushed over the model to
create a surface that will make it easier to apply the given colors.
Base color: The base color is a coat applied to your model that is usually darker than
the over coat, as it will be the shading for the recessed areas of the given surface.
Color coat: this coat is laid over the base color. This is the actual color you want
the given surface to be.
Non-Metallic metal (NMM): Using a palette of non-metallic colors to portray the
reflections of metal on a naturally metallic item.
-Etherealmajesty
Simple snow bases - by Eagles
First what you need:
Baking Soda, Elmer's White Glue (PVA Glue), Water
Step 1.
Paint some small green patches on your base where you want to put some static grass, this
makes the snow looks like it is melting, or walked on some. You can skip this if you want.
Step 2.
Mix the Baking Soda:PVA Glue:Water as follows:
1:2:4
Makes a thicker mixture that is a little easier to work with and easier to put down.
1:1:4
Is a little runner and will dry really smooth.
If the mixture is too runny or thick (1 or 2 bases and you should which you like) add
more baking soda to make it not as runny, or more water/glue (about a 50/50 mix each) to
it if it is too thick.
Step 3
Put the snow on the base avoiding the green spots if you want to add grass. After the snow
is dry put your grass down.
Step 4
Take a clean brush, wet it REALLY good. Brush the "snow" off any parts of the
figure it shouldn't be on.
Step 5
After the snow and everything is dry and after all the sealants are on the figure paint a
coat or two of gloss Varnish over the base to make it look "wet"
http://www.pbase.com/hawks58/inbox
All the snow bases were done like that except that it doesn't have any gloss varnish
over them.
- Eagles
Modelling
and Painting Suggestions FAQ by RLobinske
Some observations to help novice painters get advice on this forum. Updated and with
some editorial corrections.
1. Please use the search function. It is the third link from the bottom of the left
frame. Some questions are asked repeatedly and a quick search can often answer your
question quickly. Example topics include: highlighting, drybrushing, transfers (decals),
epoxy putty (green stuff), inks/washes, paints drying up and paint removal.
2. Check the links at the Warpgate Network, there are some good websites for painting
and terrain listed there. Also, check the various articles in the hobby section of the GW
website and White Dwarf. Don't forget the other model building literature, you can learn a
lot from the model railroad, aircraft and armor enthusiasts.
3. Make your question as clear and detailed as possible. Asking "how do I paint my
------- minis?" is not a good question. These "paint-by-numbers" answers
may help immediately, but to learn to paint effectively, you will need to learn to judge
the colors needed and make your own choices on techniques used. Specific questions like
"how can I paint the armor on ----- to look bright and well cared for?" will get
help much quicker than weak, generic questions. Please don't post a picture of a model or
r efer to a page in an army book and ask "how do I paint like this?" Unless the
actual painter happens to respond, the best you will get is a guess anyway. Plus, many
that may be able to help can't, because they don't have that particular publication. Don't
expect studio assistance. Studio involvement on this forum is limited. Please use
something as close to standard English as possible, trying to interpret poor wording or
abbreviations is not fun.
4. Be patient. This is a message board, not a chat-room. Wait at least a day before
bumping a question to keep it on the front page. There are regular posters from all around
the world, so it will take time for them to read and answer. In a similar vein, only post
your question once, and use a relevant subject line.
5. Often you will get several different methods described (and some of us can go off on
tangents discussing the relative merits of preferred techniques). Use scrap sprue or spare
parts to try out as many as possible, that way you can directly see the results and get a
feel for the process, then you can decide which one works best for you and produces the
effect you are after. However, keep the other methods in mind, they may be useful sometime
in the future.
6. Practice. The most important advice on painting. You first minis will look terrible,
it happened to all of us. To learn the techniques and control requires practice, there is
simply no way around it. If you have just started painting figures, you will not produce
models that look like the examples in magazines or army books until you have a good amount
of experience behind you.
Painting Horses by Kathrynloch
Check out this link for tips on horse painting (with pictures!)
http://www.freewebs.com/kathrynloch/paintinghorsesarticle.htm
Intro to Wet Blending by
KathrynLoch
A nice article about how to start wet blending with lots of pictures!
http://www.freewebs.com/kathrynloch/wetblendingarticle.htm
Protecting your Paint Job -
by Goatrider
There are two parts to making a paint job stay on- what you put under your paint, and
what you put over it.
First, you need to thoroughly wash your minis. Sometimes they use mold release, and
other oils might get on it during the manufacturing process. Also, during assembly you
probably got skin oils on the miniature. Both of these will prevent the primer from
sticking.
Next, you need to use a good primer. Primer is best done with spray paint. But it's not
ordinary spray paint- it has adhesives to make it stick better to bare metal or plastic,
and grit to make it rougher and easier to paint on. If it doesn't say "primer"
on the can, it's just ordinary spray paint (one exception- I think Games Workshop in UK
sells their primer as "chaos black" or "bone white". GW in the US
still calls it primer). Let your primer dry for at least 24 hours, better would be 48, if
you use acrylic paints. Although it may feel dry to the touch, it will still be
out-gassing solvents which can weaken the acrylic.
After painting, make sure you let it dry for at least 2 days. Again, it might feel dry,
but it takes a couple days for acrylic to fully cure and reach full strength. If you seal
it in, it will always be weak.
Finally, varnish it. If you don't want it to look shiny like varnish, use
"Testor's Dullcote" spray varnish, which is the only truly matte varnish I know
of. Some people think it doesn't protect very well, and will spray a cheaper varnish first
to protect, and then kill the shine with Dullcote. If there are some areas that need to be
shiny, spray with Dullcote first, then use any brush-on gloss varnish. I haven't yet found
a bad brush-on gloss varnish.
Oh- one more thing. Storage. If you let the minis bang into each other, that will chip
the paint off far faster than your hands will rub it off. Make sure you minis are
separated in some way, at least by wrapping them in tissue. Most people use carriers with
foam compartments the right size for each mini.
Glues - by Goatrider
There is no "best glue", otherwise that would be the only glue. There are
only most suitable glues for different jobs. For miniatures and wargame scenery, we
basically need only 4 glues; PVA, CA, Epoxy, and Plastic Cement. Polyurethane and
construction glues are also useful for large scenery projects. Get comfy, I think I've got
a lot to say on this subject.
PVA glue, also know as white glue, is useful for scenery building, such as attaching
flock to bases. There are a lot of different brands of white glue, and I did some
experiments to see what works the best for me. Anything labeled "school glue" is
intended to be washable. Because of this, it is weak, gets weaker when there's humidity,
and comes right off if it gets wet- and this includes painting over it with acrylic. The
best glue I tested was Titebond II, a waterproof woodworker's glue. The only problem is it
dries slightly yellow, which is not a problem if it's not the top layer, or you paint over
it. Aleene's Tacky Glue is also a very good one, particularly for gluing foliage onto
trees. PVA glue can also be thinned with water to make it flow better if you want to brush
it on. It doesn’t take much water- I use about 3 parts Titebond to 1 part water, but
different glues need different amounts. Note that there are three basic categories of PVA
glue- School glue, regular white PVA glue, and yellow woodworker's glue.
CyanoAcrylic glue, also known as super glue, is best for gluing metal to metal when the
joint fits together really tight, and the surfaces are smooth. It also works fine on
plastic. It's an unstable liquid that turns hard when it gets squeezed. You want to use as
little as possible, and like I said, the surfaces need to be smooth and tightly fitting.
The best way to do this is to file both sides flat with a mill file. If you can't get the
joint tight, use epoxy, described next. There are a lot of brands of CA, most of them are
pretty good. I usually just buy the store brand at the model airplane store. It also comes
in thick, medium, and thin, with thin being the fastest. Medium seems to be the best for
minis. You can also get a spray accellerator, but it weakens the joint somewhat.
2-part Epoxy is useful when the joints don't fit well, and there's a big gap that needs
to be filled. I'm not sure why, but a thickened cold-weld epoxy works the best, like JB
Weld or JB Kwik. Unlike CA, the joints should be roughed up a bit, so that the epoxy has
something to grab onto. You mix the two parts in equal amounts, and it gradually starts
getting hard. It doesn't "dry", it "cures". JB Kwik is workable for
only a few minutes, and you need to hold the joint for 5 to 10 minutes. It's then cured in
a few hours. JB Weld is workable for about a half hour, hold it for an hour, and it's
fully cured in 24. One thing I like to do is use a little extra, and the excess squeezes
out. When it's partially cured, I use a modelling knife to slice off the excess and carve
details into the epoxy filling the gap. Note that Green Stuff is also an epoxy, but it's
got too much thickener to be a good adhesive. I've heard some people will put a thin layer
of CA before the green stuff, to glue the CA to either side of the gap- but I think that's
not as good as using the right epoxy in the first place.
Plastic Cement isn't really a glue, it's a solvent. It melts the plastic, welding the
two parts together. I don't really have a lot of experience with it, so take my
recommendation with a grain of salt. Testor's seems to be a popular brand, and the new
liquid cement seems quite convenient and easy to control. Because it works by melting
plastic, it doesn’t work on metal.
Polyurethane glue is a good substitute for PVA glue when gluing together large sheets
of polystyrene foam. PVA needs air to dry, and it won't dry in the middle of the sheet.
Polyurethane reacts with moisture to cure, so you moisten one side, spread a thin layer on
the other, and put them together and clamp. Make it a thin layer, because it expands a bit
as it cures and you don't want it to bulge up. Gorilla Glue and Elmer’s Ultimate Glue
are examples of Polyurethane.
Construction glue, such as Liquid Nails, is heavy, thick glue used in construction to
attach large panels. It usually comes in a caulking gun cartridge. This is useful for
gluing large pieces of foam to a scenery table.
Most glue can benefit from clamping while it cures. This can range anywhere from just
holding it in your fingers for a few seconds, to large fancy jigs custom made for the job.
The important part is that it squeezes the pieces together, and holds them steady so the
glue has a chance to cure undisturbed.
Well, I guess you know why my friends call me "Mr. Adhesives". There are a
lot of other kinds of glue out there, but these 4 get the most use in miniatures.
Brush Care - by Goatrider
The reason brushes split is because paint dries in the ferrule, acting like a wedge. To
keep this from happening, make sure paint doesn't get up there. While you paint, keep an
eye on how far up the bristles the paint is getting. If it gets close to the ferrule, stop
painting and rinse the brush out in water before continuing.
At the end of your session, wash your brushes thoroughly with soap and water. The best
soap would be one that is intended for brush cleaning, such as "The Master's Brush
Cleaner and Preserver". Wet the brush, swirl it in the soap, and swirl it in your
palm and work up a lather. If color comes out of the ferrule, rinse and repeat. Leave soap
in it when you're done, and shape it to a point. Let the soap dry in the brush, this will
hold the point until your next session.
Once you've gotten good at taking care of brushes, you can graduate to some decent
Kolinsky Sable watercolor brushes. They are very expensive, but the way they hold a point
makes it worth it. If you can take care of them properly, they will last you a very long
time.
Tools for Getting Started -
by Goatrider
First, you should get the rulebook for the game you're going to play. It has a basic
guide for the modeling and painting side of the hobby.
Here's a list of the basic set of tools and materials you need to do a basically
competent job, in the order you need them. You can get by with less, but you won't do as
good a job:
- Sprue clipper
- Hobby knife (xacto #11 blades and a holder is a good start)
- Small files, if you get just one I'd suggest a tapered half-round.
- Large flat file, this is good for flattening the feet before gluing the mini to the
base.
- Pin vice, bits, and small rod if you're putting together a big mini.
- Plastic cement (for plastic minis)
- Cyanoacrylic glue (superglue, for metal minis)
- Epoxy, like JB Weld or JB Kwik, for joints that don’t fit together well.
- Putty of some sort, for filling cracks. Epoxy putty can be used for this and other
conversion needs. I use Squadron White usually.
- Primer. (See "What are Primers and Varnishes")
- Brushes (1, 0, and 00 should be a good starting set. Sable watercolor brushes)
- Paints and inks (only you can decide how many)
- PVA glue (for gluing flock on)
- Flock
- Varnish.
Don't worry about doing conversions right off the bat. Start with the basics and work
up from there.
A guide to using
magnets - by EvilBryan
I have recently created a guide for using magnets during the construction of Space
Marines. The guide can be found at:
http://www.evilbryan.com/ht_arm_swap.html
Enjoy!
EvilBryan
Pinning - by Godhammer
Assembling large metal models present a challenge to even the most experienced
modeller. The pieces either won’t stick together or the bond formed by CA glue alone
isn’t strong enough to hold the pieces together. This is were Pinning comes in. Much
like doweling in woodworking, pinning is using a rod to attach two pieces of a model
together.
Materials Needed:
Pin Vice with bits (available in the online store under hobby supplies)
Paper Clip or Brass rod (brass rod available at most crafts stores)
Superglue (I recommend Zap-a-Gap)
Model to be pinned
Paint (optional)
You can acquire most of these materials at a crafts store or a hobby store. Pin vices
are available in the Games Workshop Online Store under Hobby supplies and there are
several other companies that make them. The materials used for pinning are a little harder
to get. Paper clips are easy enough to find but Brass Rod can be difficult if you don't
know were to look. Many model train or remote control hobby shops have brass rod as do
many crafts stores.
To begin pinning, clean up the areas were the two parts meet with a file to give a
smooth surface. Now, if you aren’t confident with yourself, take a bit of paint and
make a small dot on one piece and press it against the other piece so that the paint
transfers to the other piece and gives you two corresponding dots. Take a pin vice bit the
same diameter as the paperclip or brass rod that you are using and load it into the pin
vice. Carefully drill into the pieces were you have marked them with paint. Now,
straighten out your paperclip, put a little drop of glue on the end (remember, with
superglue, less is more) and put it in one of the holes. Allow this to cure. Cut the
paperclip to a little longer than you think you will need it to be and test fit the other
piece. If it is too long, cut a little bit off at a time until it is the right length.
Now, place a small drop of glue on the end of the rod and a little on the faces to be
glued. Put the piece on the rod and press the two parts together for a few minutes so that
the glue will cure. You’re done!
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